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A NEW COLLECTION OF VOYAGES, DISCOVERIES and TRAVELS:
CONTAINING Whatever is worthy of Notice, in EUROPE, ASIA, AFRICA and AMERICA
IN RESPECT TO The Situation and Extent of Empires, Kingdoms, and Provinces;
their Climates, Soil, Produce &c.
WITH The Manners and Customs of the several Inhabitants; their Government,
Religion, Arts, Sciences, Manufactures, and Commerce
The whole consisting of such ENGLISH and FOREIGN Authors as are in most
Esteem; including the Descriptions and Remarks of some celebrated late
Travellers; not to be found in any other Collection. Illustrated with a
Variety of accurate MAPS, PLANS, and elegant ENGRAVINGS.
VOL. VI.
LONDON:
Printed for J. KNOX, near Southampton-Street, in the Strand. MDCCLXVII.
TRAVELS Into the Inland Parts of AFRICA, BY FRANCIS MOORE.
I LEFT England, says Mr. Moore, in July 1730, on being
appointed a writer in the service of the Royal African company, and on
the 9th of November came to an anchor in the mouth of the Gambia. As we
sailed up that river near the shore, the country appeared very beautiful,
being for the most part woody; and between the woods were pleasant green
rice grounds, which after the rice is cut, are stocked with cattle. On
the 11th we landed at James's Island, which is situated in the middle of
the river, that is here at least seven miles broad. This island lies about
ten leagues from the river's mouth, and is about three quarters of a mile
in circumference. Upon it is a square stone fort regularly built , with
four bastions; and upon each are seven guns well mounted, that command
the river all round: beside, under the walls of the fort facing the sea,
are two round batteries, on each of which are four large cannon well mounted,
that carry ball of 24 pounds weight, and between these are nine small guns
mounted for salutes.
Beside the fort, there are several factories up the river, settled for the convenience of trade; but they are all under
the direction of the governor and chief merchants of the fort. For this
purpose the com
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pany have here about three or four sloops of about
30 tons each, and about the same number of long boats; some of which are
constantly employed in fetching provisions and water from the main for
the use of the garrison, and the rest are employed in carrying goods up
to the factories, and bringing from them slaves, elephants teeth, and wax.
Soon after my arrival, I supped upon oysters
that grew upon trees: this being somewhat remarkable, it may be thought
worthy of an explanation. Down the river, where the water is salt, and
near the sea, the river is bounded with trees called Mangroves; whose leaves
being long and heavy, weigh the boughs into the water: to these leaves
the young oysters fasten in great quantities, where they grow till they
are very large, and then you cannot separate them from the tree, but are
obliged to cut off the boughs with the oysters hanging on them, resembling
ropes of onions.
On the 22d of February, one of the kings of
Fonia came to the fort, and on his landing was saluted with five guns.
He came to see the governor, or rather to ask for some powder and ball,
in order to enable him to defend himself against some people with whom
he was at war: he was a young man, very black, tall, and well set; was
dressed in a pair of short yellow cotton-cloth breeches, and wore on his
back a garment of the same cloth, made like a surplice: he had on his head
a very large cap, to which was fastened part of a goat's tail, which is
a customary ornament with the great men of this river; but he had no shoes
nor stockings. He and his retinue came in a large canoe, holding about
16 people, all armed with guns and cutlasses. With him came two or three
women, and the same number of Mundingo drums, which are about a yard long,
and a foot or twenty inches diameter at the top, but less at the bottom;
made out of a solid piece of wood, and covered at the widest end with the
skin of a kid.
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They beat upon them with the left hand, using only
one drum-stick; and the women will dance very briskly to the sound. They
staid at the fort all night, and then returned home, having nine guns fired
at their going off.
It may be here proper to observe, that there
are many different kingdoms on the banks of the Gambia, inhabited by several
races of people, as Mundingoes, Jolloiffs, Pholeys, Floops, and Portuguese.
The most numerous are called Mundingoes, as is likewise the country they
inhabit: these are generally of a black colour, and well set. When this
country was conquered by the Portuguese, about the year 1420, some of that
nation settled in it, who have cohabited with these Mundingoes, till they
are now very near as black as they: but as they still retain a sort of
bastard Portuguese language, called Creole, and as they christen and marry
by the help of a priest annually sent thither from St. Jago, one of the
Cape de verde islands, they still esteem themselves Portuguese Christians,
as much as if they were actually natives of Portugal; and nothing angers
them more than to call them Negroes, that being a term they use only for
slaves.
On the north-side of the river Gambia, and
from thence in-land, are a people called Jolloiffs, whose country extends
even to the river Senegal. These people are much blacker, and handsomer
than the Mundingoes; for they have not the broad nose and thick lips peculiar
to the Mundingoes and Floops.
In every kingdom and country on each side of
the river are people of a tawney colour, called Pholeys, who resemble the
Arabs, whose language most of them speak; for it is taught in their schools;
and the koran, which is also their law, is in that language. They are more
generally learned in the Arabic, than the people of Europe are in Latin;
for they can most of them speak it, though they have a vulgar tongue
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called
Pholey. They live in hords or clans, build towns, and are not subject to
any of the kings of the country, though they live in their territories;
for if they are used ill in one nation, they break up their towns and move
to another. They have chiefs of their own, who rule with such moderation,
that every act of government seems rather an act of the people than of
one man. This form of government is easily administered, because the people
are of a good and quiet disposition, and so well instructed in what is
just and right, that a man, who does ill, is the abomination of all.
In these countries the natives are not avaricious
of lands; they desire no more than what they use, and as they do not plough
with horses or cattle, they can use but very little.
The natives make no bread, but thicken liquids
with the flour of the different grains. The maize they mostly use when
green, parching it in the ear, when it eats like green peas. their rice
they boil in the same manner as is practiced by the Turks; and make flour
of the Guinea corn and mansaroke, as they also sometimes do of the two
former species, by beating it in wooden mortars. The natives never bake
cakes or bread for themselves, but those of their women who live among
the Europeans learn to do both.
The Pholey are the greatest planters in the
country, though they are strangers in it. They are very industrious and
frugal, and raise much more corn and cotton than they consume, which they
sell at reasonable rates; and are so remarkable for their hospitality,
that the natives esteem it a blessing to have a Pholey town in the neighbourhood:
beside, their behaviour has gained them such a reputation, that it is esteemed
infamous for any one to treat them in an inhospitable manner.
The most general language used in these countries
is the Mundingo; and whoever can speak it, may
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travel from the
river's mouth up to the country of the Jencoes, or the merchants; a people
so called, from their annually buying a great number of slaves there, and
bringing them down to the lower parts of the river, to sell them to the
Europeans; though I believe their country cannot be less than six weeks
journey from James's Fort.
The next language mostly used here is called
the Creole Portuguese; though I believe it would be scarce understood at
Lisbon: it is, however, sooner learnt by Englishmen, than any other language
used on the banks of this river, and is always spoken by the linguists
or interpreters; and these two I learnt whilst in the river.
The Arabic is not only spoken by the Pholeys,
but by most of the Mahometans in the river, though they are Mundingoes;
and it is observed, that those who can write that language are not only
very strict at their devotions three or four times a day; but are remarkably
sober and abstemious in their manner of living.
On the 4th of April I went to Gillyfree, which
is a large town, a little below James's fort, inhabited by Portuguese,
Mundingoes, and some Mahometans, who have here a pretty little mosque.
The English company have a factory here, pleasantly situated, facing the
fort, and also some gardens that supply the fort with greens and fruit.
A native here took me to his house, and shewed
me a great number of arrows, daubed over with a black mixture, said to
be so venomous, that if the arrow did but draw blood it would be mortal,
unless the person who made the mixture had a mind to cure it; for the man
observed, that there were no poisonous herbs, whose effects might not be
prevented by the application of other herbs.
On the 11th, came down the river a vessel commanded
by captain Pyke, a separate trader, from Joar, loaded with slaves, among
whom was a person
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of an elegant figure, named Job Ben Solomon, who
was of the Pholey race, and son to the high priest of Bundo, in Foota,
a place about ten days journey from Gillyfree. This person was travelling
on the south side of the Gambia, with a servant, and about 20 or 30 head
of cattle, which induced the king of a country a little within the land,
to seize not only the cattle, but Job and his man, both of whom he sold
for slaves to captain Pyke. The Pholeys, his humane countrymen, would have
redeemed him; but they had the mortification to find that he was carried
out of the river before they had notice of his being a slave; and captain
Pyke sailed with him to Maryland. Job, who was a person of extraordinary
abilities, and distinguished merit, was not so unhappy as he had reason
to expect: but his adventures will be hereafter related, when I shall have
occasion to mention his return to this country.
On the 29th, the governor and I set out for Vintain, where we arrived in three hours, though it lies about six leagues
from James's fort. On our coming to the town, the Alcade, and all the principal
inhabitants came to welcome us; and soon after came the prince, in whose
dominions the town is situated.
The inhabitants are not very curious in their
furniture, for the most that any of them have is a small chest for cloaths,
a matt raised upon posts from the ground, to lie on; a jar to hold water,
a callabash to drink it with; two or three wooden mortars, in which they
pound their corn and rice; a basket which they use as a sieve, and two
or three large callabashes, out of which they eat with their hands instead
of spoons. They are not very careful of laying up store against a time
of scarcity; but chuse rather to sell what they can, as upon occasion they
can fast two or three days without eating; but then they are always smoaking
tobacco, which is of their own growth.
Here are cameleons, and great numbers of crocodiles,
which the natives kill and eat: they admire
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both them and
their eggs, which I have frequently seen them eat, when they had young
ones in them as long as my finger. This is one of their nicest dishes.
Whilst I was here, I saw an ostrich, with a
man riding upon its back, who was going down to the fort; it being a present
to the governor, from one of our factors, who bought it at Fatatenda.
Soon after my arrival at Joar, the king of
Barsally came thither, attended by three of his brothers, above 100 horsemen,
and as many foot; and though he had a house of his own in the town, he
insisted on lying at the factory. Mr. Roberts, Mr. Harrison, who were factors,
and I, were all the English there. the king immediately took possession
of Mr. Roberts's bed; and then having drank brandy till he was drunk, ordered
Mr. Roberts to be held, while he himself took out of his pocket the keys
of the storehouse, into which he and several of his people went, and took
what they pleased: he searched chiefly for brandy; of which there happened
to be but one anchor: he took that, and having drank till he was dead drunk,
was put to bed. This anchor lasted him three days; and it was no sooner
empty, than he went all over the house to seek for more. At last he entered
a room, in which Mr. Harrison lay sick, and seeing there a case that contained
six gallons and a half, that belonged to him and me, he ordered Mr. Harrison
to get out of bed and open it: he, however, told him with great gravity,
that there was nothing in it but some of the company's papers; and that
it must not be opened; but the king was too well acquainted with liquor
cases to be so easily deceived; and therefore ordered some of his men to
hold Mr. Harrison in bed, while he himself took the key out of his breeches
pocket. He then opened the chest, took out all the liquor, and was not
sober while it lasted: but he often sent for Mr. Harrison and me to drink
with him. At length it being all drank, he
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talked of going
home; on which his people, and even his chief ministers, who were his general,
and the keeper of his stores, amused themselves with taking whatever they
liked, and had the assurance to open even chests and boxes. This we could
not help, for what resistance could three men make against 200? What they
took amounted to 20 l. sterling.
Sometimes the king would ride abroad, and take
most of his attendants with him: but when he was gone we were plagued with
the company of two of this brothers, who were, if possible, worse than
his majesty. Once during his absence Boomey Haman Benda, one of these princes,
laid hold of a mug of water, and pretending to drink, took a mouthful,
and then setting the mug on the table, spurted the water in my face. Upon
which, considering that if I suffered such insolence to pass unresented,
it would render me liable to be continually insulted, I took the remainder
of the water, and threw it into his breeches. Upon this he pulled out his
knife, and endeavoured to stab me, but was prevented by his favorite attendant,
who held his arm, and soon after represented to him the unhandsome manner
in which he had treated me, and the provocation I had received to wet him.
This made him so ashamed, that coming up to me, he laid himself down on
the floor without his garment, took my foot, and placed it on his neck,
and there lay till I desired him to rise: after which, no man appeared
more my friend, no shewed greater willingness to oblige me.
This king, as well as all his attendants, are
of the Mahometan religion, notwithstanding their being such drunkards;
and this monster, when he is sober, even prays. His people, as well as
himself, always wear white cloaths and white caps; and as they are exceeding
black, this dress makes them look exceeding well.
This tyrant is tall, and so passionate, that
when any of his men affront him, he makes no scruple of shoot
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ing
them; and sometimes when he goes aboard a company's sloop at Cohone, where
he usually resides, he inhumanly shews his dexterity by shooting at the
canoes that pass by, frequently killing one or two men in a day. He has
many wives, but never brings above two or three abroad at a time with him.
Among his brothers, there are some to whom he seldom speaks, or permits
to come into his company; and when they obtain his favour, they pull off
their caps and garments, and throw dust upon their heads, as all except
white men do, who come into the king's presence.
The dominions of this prince are very extensive,
and are divided into several provinces, over which he appoints governors,
called boomeys, who annually come to pay him homage.
At length the king and his guards, to our great
joy, left the factory, in order to return to Cohone; but they first stript
Mr. Roberts's chamber, and took away his cloaths and books, which last
they offered to sell to a Mahometan priest; but he being a friend to Mr.
Roberts, told them, he believed they were books in which he kept the account
of his goods, and that to take them would inevitably ruin him: upon which
they gave him leave to return them.
However, five months after, the king of Barsally
paid us another visit, and staying about a week, during which he behaved
much in the same manner as before, he and his attendants again left us;
but some of them first broke open my bureau, and took out things to a considerable
value; and the same fate attended Mr. Roberts: besides which they took
a great quantity of the company's goods.
In the interval which passed between these
two visits, I had been made factor, and had received orders to take charge
of the factory of Joar: but I was unwilling to accept this office, as that
factory was liable to many insults from a drunken monarch, void of every
principle of justice, and destitute of the
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feeling of humanity.
I therefore took an inventory of the goods the company had there, in January
1732, and taking a letter to the governor from Mr. Roberts, my collegue
[sic], returned to James's Fort.
In March I returned to my factory: but Mr.
Hugh Hamilton being sent up the river to settle a factory at Fatatenda,
I was permitted to accompany him; and accordingly on the 9th on the 9th
of April we left Joar, and proceeded in a sloop up the Gambia. The next
day we arrived at Yanimarew, which is the pleasantest port on the whole
river, the country being delightfully shaded with palm and palmetto trees.
The company have here a small house, with a black factor, to purchase corn
for the use of the fort.
On my arrival at Nackway, the natives welcomed
me with the music of the balafeu, which, at about 100 yards distance, sounds
something like a small organ. It is composed of about 20 pipes of very
hard wood finely polished; which diminish by little and little, both in
length and breadth, and are tied together by thongs of very fine leather.
These thongs are twisted about small round wands, put between the pipes
to keep them at a distance; and underneath the pipes are fastened 12 or
14 callabashes of different sizes. This instrument they play upon with
two sticks, covered with a tin skin taken from the trunk of the palmetto
tree, or with fine leather, to make the sound less harsh. Both men and
women dance to this music, which they much admire, and are highly delighted
to have a white man dance with them.
Having finished my business here, I returned
to Yamyamacunda; and having continued there about three months, proceeded
still farther up the river to Fatatenda. The Gambia is there as wide as
the Thames at London-Bridge, and seemed very deep; but what is most extraordinary,
the tide in the dry season rises three or four feet, though that place
is 600 miles from the river's mouth.
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On the 20th of November in the evening was a total eclipse of
the moon; and the Mundingoes told me, the darkness was occasioned by a
cat's putting her paw between the moon and the earth. The Mahometans in
this country were singing and dancing the whole time, because they expect
their prophet to come in an eclipse.
I stayed at Yamyamacunda, till the 5th of May,
1734; and was employed in the company's service in different parts of the
river till the 13th of July following, when I was desired to come down
to James's Fort: I was there on the 8th of August, when the Dolphin snow
arrived, with four writers, and Job Ben Solomon, on board. We have already
mentioned his being robbed and carried to Joar, where he was sold to captain
Pyke, by whom he was carried to Maryland. Job was there sold to a planter,
with whom he had lived about a twelvemonth, in all which time he had the
happiness not to be struck by his master, and then the good fortune to
have a letter of his own writing in the Arabic tongue conveyed to England.
This letter coming to the hand of Mr. Oglethorp, he sent it to Oxford to
be translated; which being done, it gave him such satisfaction, and inspired
him with so good an opinion of the author, that he immediately sent orders
to have him bought of his master. This happened a little before that gentleman's
setting out for Georgia; and before his return from thence, Job arrived
in England; where being brought to the acquaintance of Sir Hans Sloane,
he was found to be a perfect master of the Arabic tongue, by his translating
several manuscripts and inscriptions on medals. That learned antiquary
recommended him to the duke of Montague, who being pleased with his genius
and capacity, the agreeableness of his behaviour, and the sweetness of
his temper, introduced him to court; where he was graciously received by
the royal family and most of the nobility, who
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who honoured
him with many marks of favour. The African company and the chief merchants
of the city strove who should oftenest invite him to their tables. His
good sense engaged their esteem; he freely discoursed on every subject,
and attended the churches of the most celebrated divines. When he had been
in England about 14 months, his ardent desire to see his native country
made him press for his departure. He had wrote from England to the high
priest his father, and earnestly longed to see him. Upon his setting out
from England, he received many noble presents from queen Caroline, prince
William, the duke of Montague, and the earl of Pembroke, several ladies
of quality, Mr. Holden, and the royal African company; and the latter ordered
all their agents to shew him the greatest respect.
On his arrival at James's Fort, Job desired that I would send a messenger to his country to let his friends know where
he was. I spoke to one of the blacks whom he usually employed, to procure
me a messenger, and he brought me a Pholey, who not only knew the high
priest his father, but Job himself, and expressed great joy at seeing him
safely returned from slavery; he being the only man, except one, ever known
to come back to his country, after being once carried a slave out of it
by white men. Job gave him the message himself, and desired that his father
would not come down to him, observing that it was too far for him to travel;
and that it was fit the young should go to the old, and not for the old
to come to the young. He also sent some presents to his wives; and desired
the man to bring his little one, who was his best beloved, down to him.
Job having a mind to go up to Joar, to talk
with some of his countrymen, went along with me. We arrived at the creek
of Damasensa; and having some old acquaintances at the town of that name,
Job and I went in the yawl: in the way going up a narrow place for about
half a mile, we saw several monkeys
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of a beautiful blue and
red, which the natives told me never set their feet on the ground, but
live entirely among the trees, leaping from one to another, at such great
distances, as would appear improbable to any but an eyewitness.
In the evening as my friend Job and I were
sitting under a great tree at Damasensa, there came six or seven of the
very people, who, three years before, had robbed and made a slave of him,
at about 30 miles distance from that place. Job, though naturally possessed
of a very even temper, could not contain himself on seeing them: he was
filled with rage and indignation, and was for attacking them with his broadsword
and pistols, which he always took care to have about him. I had much ado
to dissuade him from rushing upon them: but at length representing the
ill consequences that would infallibly attend so rash an action, and the
impossibility that either of us should escape alive, I made him lay aside
the attempt, and persuading him to sit down, and pretending not to know
them, to ask them questions about himself; which he accordingly did; and
they told him the truth. At last he enquired how the king their master
did? they replied that he was dead; and by farther inquiry we found that
amongst the goods for which he sold Job to captain Pyke there was a pistol,
which the king used commonly to wear slung by a string about his neck;
and as they never carry arms without their being loaded, the pistol one
day accidentally went off, and the balls lodging in his throat, he presently
died. Job was so transported at the close of this story, that he immediately
fell on his knees, and returned thanks to Mahomet for making him die by
the very goods for which he sold him into slavery. The returning to me,
he cried, "You see now, Mr. Moore, that God Almighty was displeased at
this man's making me a slave, and therefore made him die by the very pistol
for which he sold me: yet I ought to forgive him, because had not I been
sold,
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I should neither have known any thing of the English
tongue, nor have had any of the fine, useful, and valuable things, I have
brought with me; nor have known that there is such a place in the world
as England; nor such noble, good, and generous people as queen Caroline,
prince William, the duke of Montague, the earl of Pembroke, Mr. Holden,
Mr. Oglethorpe, and the royal African company."
After this Job went frequently with me to Cower,
and several other places about the country. He always spoke very handsomely
of the English; and what he said removed much of that horror the Pholeys
felt for the state of slavery amongst them. For they before generally imagined,
that all who were sold for slaves, were at least murdered, if not eaten,
since none ever returned. His descriptions also gave them a high opinion
of the power of England, and a veneration for the English, who traded amongst
them. He sold some of the presents he brought with him for trading goods,
with which he bought a woman slave, and two horses, which he designed to
take with him to Bundo. He gave his countrymen a good deal of writing paper,
a very valuable commodity amongst them, for the company had made him a
present of several reams. He used frequently to pray; and he behaved with
great affability and mildness to all, which rendered him extreamly popular.
The messenger not returning so soon as was
expected, Job desired to go down to James's Fort, to take care of his goods;
and I promised not only to send him word when the messenger came back,
but to send other messengers, for fear the first should have miscarried.
At length the messenger returned with several
letters, and advice that Job's father was dead; but had lived to receive
the letters his son had sent him from England, which gave him the welcome
news of his being redeemed from slavery, and an account of the figure he
made in England: that one of Job's wives
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was married to another
man; but that as soon as the new husband had heard of his return, he thought
it adviseable to abscond; and that since Job's absence from his native
country, there had been such a dreadful war, that the Pholeys there had
not one cow left, though before Job's departure his countrymen were famed
for their numerous herds. With this messenger came many of Job's old friends,
whom he was exceeding glad to see; but notwithstanding the joy their presence
gave him, he shed abundance of tears for the loss of his father, and the
misfortunes of his country. He forgave his wife, and the man who had taken
her; "For Mr. Moore, said he, she could not help thinking I was dead; for
I was gone to a land from whence no Pholey ever yet returned; therefore
neither she nor the man is to be blamed." During three or four days he
conversed with his friends without any interruption except to sleep or
eat.
As I have brought this account almost to the
time of my leaving this country, it will be necessary to give a more particular
description of it, with respect to the climate, the general customs of
the natives, and the trade carried on there.
As the mouth of the Gambia lies in the latitude
of 130; 20' north, and 150; 20' west longitude, there is no wonder that
the climate is excessive hot; but the greatest heats are generally about
the latter end of May, a fortnight or three weeks before the rainy season
begins. The sun is perpendicular twice in the year, and the days are never
longer from sun-rising to sun-set than 13 hours, nor even shorter than
11. What at first seemed to me strange, was that as soon as it grew light,
the sun arose, and it no sooner set than it grew dark.
The rainy season commonly begins with the month
of June, and continues till the latter end of September, or the beginning
of October. The wind comes first and blows excessive hard, for the space
of half an hour or more, before any rain falls, so that a vessel
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may
be suddenly surprised and overset by it: a person may however perceive
the signs of its coming; for the clouds grow very black, and the lightenings
darting from them, have an awful appearance. Both the thunder and the lightening
are exceeding dreadful; the flashes succeeding each other so swiftly, as
to render it continually light, while the thunder at the same time shakes
the very ground. During the rain the air is generally cool: but the shower
is no sooner over, than the sun breaks out excessive hot, which induces
some people to cast off their cloaths, and lie down to sleep; but before
they are awake, another tornado perhaps comes, when the cold strikes into
their very bones, and gives them fits of illness, which to the Europeans
are very fatal. During the rainy season the sea breezes seldom blow; but
instead of them, easterly winds, which in the months of November, December,
January, and February, generally blow very fresh, and sometimes the evenings
and mornings are exceeding cold, and the middle of the day very hot.
Four months in the year are unhealthful, and
very tedious to those who come from a colder climate; but a perpetual spring,
in which you commonly see ripe fruit and blossoms on the same tree, makes
some amends for that inconvenience. Beside, the heat of the air is frequently
moderated by pleasant and refreshing breezes.
The Gambia is of such a length as to be navigable
for sloops above 600 miles, the tides reaching so far from its mouth. The
land on each side of this great and fine river is for the most part flat
and woody about a quarter of a mile beyond its banks: and within that space
are pleasant open grounds, on which the natives plant rice; and in the
dry season it serves the cattle for pasture. Thus within land it is generally
very woody; but near the towns there is always a large spot of ground cleared
for corn. near the sea no hills are to be seen; but high up the river are
lofty
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mountains. These are chiefly composed of iron stone,
and though they are sometimes little else but a continued hard rock, they
are full of trees, and serve greatly to beautify the face of the country.
In every kingdom there are several persons
called lords of the soil, who have the property of all the palm and palmetto
trees, so that none are allowed to draw any wine from them, without their
knowledge and consent. Those who obtain leave to draw wine, give two days
produce in a week, to the lord of the soil; and white men are obliged to
make a small present to them, before they cut palmetto leaves, or grass,
to cover their houses.
The palm is a fine straight tree that grows
to a prodigious height, and out of it the natives extract a sort of white
liquor like whey, called palm wine; by making an incision on the top of
the trunk, to which they apply gourd bottles, and into these the liquor
runs by means of a pipe made of leaves. This wine is very pleasant as soon
as it is drawn, it being extraordinary sweet; but is apt to purge very
much: however, in a day or two it ferments, and grows rough and strong
like Rhenish wine; when not being at all prejudicial to the health, it
is plentifully drank by all the negroes. It is very surprising to see how
nimbly the natives will go up these trees, which are sometimes 60, 70,
or 100 feet high, and the bark smooth. They have nothing to help them to
climb, but a piece of the bark of a tree made round like a hoop, with which
they enclose themselves and the tree; then fixing it under their arms,
they set their feet against the tree, and their backs against the hoop,
and go up very fast: but sometimes they miss their footing; or the bark
on which they rest breaks or comes untied, when falling down, they lose
their lives.
The people here, as in all other hot countries,
marry their daughters very young; even some are contracted as soon as they
are born, and the parents can never after break the match; but it is in
the power
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power of the man never to come and claim his wife;
and yet without his consent she cannot marry another. Before a man takes
his wife, he is obliged to pay her parents two cows, two iron bars, and
200 cola, a fruit that grows a great way within land: it is an exceeding
good bitter, and much resembles a horse-chesnut with the skin off.
When a man takes home his wife, he makes a
feast at his own house, to which all who please come without the form of
an invitation. The bride is brought thither upon mens shoulders, with a
veil over her face, which she keeps on till she has been in bed with her
husband, during which the people dance and sing, beat drums, and fire muskets.
After his wife is brought to bed, she is not
to lie with her husband for three years, if the child lives so long; for
during that term the child sucks, and they are firmly persuaded that lying
with their husbands would spoil their milk, and render the child liable
to many diseases. The women alone are subject to all the mortifications
attending so long an abstinence; for every man is allowed to take as many
wives as he pleases: but if the wife is found false to her husband, she
is liable to be sold for a slave. Upon any dislike, a man may turn off
his wife, and make her take all her children with her; but if he has a
mind to take any of them himself, he generally chuses such as are big enough
to assist him in providing for his family. He has even the liberty of coming
several years after they have parted, and taking from her any of the children
he had by her. But if a man is disposed to part with a wife who is pregnant,
he cannot oblige her to go till she is delivered.
The women are kept in the greatest subjection;
and the men, to render their power as compleat as possible, influence their
wives to give them an unlimited obedience, by all the force of fear and
terror. For this purpose the Mundingoes have a kind of image eight or nine
feet high, made of the bark of
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trees, dressed in a long coat,
and crowned with a whisp of straw. This is called a Mumbo Jumbo; and whenever
the men have any dispute with the women, this is sent for to determine
the contest, which is almost always done in favour of the men. One who
is in the secret, conceals himself under the coat, and bringing in the
image, is the oracle on these occasions. No one is allowed to come armed
into his presence. When the women hear him coming, they run away and hide
themselves; but if you are acquainted with the person concealed in the
Mumbo Jumbo, he will send them all to come, make them sit down, and afterward
either sing or dance, as he pleases; and if any refuse to come, he will
send for, and whip them. Whenever any one enters into this society, they
swear in the most solemn manner never to divulge the secret to any woman,
or to any person that is not entered into it: and to preserve the secret
inviolable, no boys are admitted under 16 years of age. The people also
swear by the Mumbo Jumbo; and the oath is esteemed irrevocable. There are
very few towns of any note that have not one of these objects of terror,
to frighten the poor women into obedience.
About the year 1727, the king of Jagra having
a very inquisitive woman to his wife, was so weak as to disclose to her
this secret; and she being a gossip, revealed it to some other women of
her acquaintance. This at last coming to the ears of some who were no friends
to the king, they, dreading lest if the affair took vent, it should put
a period to the subjection of their wives, took the coat, put a man into
it, and going to the king's town, sent for him out, and taxed him with
it: when he not denying it, they sent for his wife, and killed them both
on the spot. Thus the poor king died for his complaisance to his wife,
and she for her curiosity.
The women pay such respect to their husbands,
that when a man has been a day or two from home his
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wives
salute him on their knees; and in the same posture they always give him
water to drink.
When a child is born they dip him over head
and ears in cold water three or four times in a day; and as soon as he
is dry, rub him over with palm oil, particularly the back-bone, the small
of the back, the elbows, the neck, knees, and hips. When they are born
they are of an olive colour, and sometimes do not turn black till they
are a month or two old.
I do not find that they are here born with
flat noses; but the mothers, when they wash the children, press down the
upper part of the nose: for large breasts, thick lips, and broad nostrils,
are esteemed extreamly beautiful. One breast is generally larger than the
other.
About a month afterward they name the child, which is done by shaving its head, and rubbing it over with oil; and a
short time before the rainy season, they circumcise a great number of boys,
of about 12 or 14 years of age, after which the boys put on a peculiar
habit; the dress of each kingdom being different. From the time of their
circumcision to that of the rains, they are allowed to commit what outrages
they please, without being called to account for them; and when the first
rain falls, the term of this licentiousness being expired, they put on
their proper habit. The people are naturally very jocose and merry, and
will dance to a drum or ballafeu, sometimes 24 hours together, now and
then dancing very regularly, and at other times using very odd gestures,
striving always to outdo each other in nimbleness and activity.
The behaviour of the natives to strangers is
really not so disagreeable as people are apt to imagine; for when I went
through any of their towns, they almost all came to shake hands with me,
except some of the women, who having never before seen a white man,
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ran
away from me as fast as they could, and would not by any means be persuaded
to come near me. Some of the men invited me to their houses, and brought
their wives and daughters to see me; who then sat down by me, and always
found something to wonder at and admire, as my boots, spurs, cloaths, or
wig.
Some of the Mundingoes have many slaves in
their houses; and in these they pride themselves. They live so well and
easily, that it is sometimes difficult to know the slaves from their masters
and mistresses; they being frequently better cloathed, especially the females,
who have sometimes coral, amber, and silver, about their wrists, to the
value of 20 or 30 l. sterling.
In almost every town they have a kind of drum
of a very large size, called a tangtong, which they only beat at the approach
of an enemy, or on some very extraordinary occasion, to call the inhabitants
of the neighbouring towns to their assistance; and this in the nigh-time
may be heard six or seven miles.
There was a custom in this country which is
not thoroughly repealed, that whatever commodity a man sells in the morning,
he may, if he repents his bargain, go and have it returned to him again,
on his paying back the money any time before the setting of the sun the
same day. This custom is still in force very high up the river; but below
it is pretty well worn out.
Whenever any factories are settled, it is customary
to put them, and the persons belonging to them, under the charge of the
people of the nearest large town, who are obliged to take care of it, and
to let none impose upon the white men, or use them ill; and if any body
is abused, he must apply to the alcalde, the head man of the town, who
will see that justice is done him. This man is, up the river, called the
white man's king; and has beside very great power. Almost every town has
two common fields,
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one for their corn and the other for their
rice, and he appoints the labour of the people: he sees that the men work
in the corn fields, and the women and girls in the rice grounds, and afterward
divides the crop among them. He likewise decides all quarrels, and has
the first voice in all conferences relating to any thing belonging to the
town.
The trade of the natives consists in gold,
slaves, elephants teeth, and bees-wax. The gold is finer than sterling,
and is brought in small bars, big in the middle, and turned round into
rings, from 10 to 40 s. each. The merchants who bring this, and other inland
commodities, are blacks of the Mundingo race, called Joncoes, who say,
that the gold is not washed out of the sand, but dug out of mines in the
mountains, the nearest of which is 20 days journey up the river. In the
country where the mines are, they say there are houses built with stone,
and covered with terras; and that the short cutlasses and knives of good
steel, which they bring with them, are made there.
The same merchants bring down elephants teeth,and in some years slaves to the amount of 2000, most of whom they say are
prisoners of war; and bought of the different princes by whom they are
taken. The way of bringing them is, by tying them by the neck with leather
thongs, at about a yard distance from each other, 30 or 40 in a string,
having generally a bundle of corn, or an elephant's tooth upon each of
their heads. In their way from the mountains they travel through extensive
woods, where they cannot for some days get water; they therefore carry
in skin bags enough to support them for that time. I cannot be certain
of the number of merchants who carry on this trade; but there may perhaps
be about 100 who go up into the inland country with the goods, which they
buy from the white men, and with them purchase, in various countries, gold,
slaves, and elephants
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teeth. They use asses, as well as slaves,
in carrying their goods, but no camels or horses.
Beside the slaves brought down by the negro merchants, there are many bought along the river, who are either taken
in war like the former, or condemned for crimes, or stolen by the people:
but the company's servants never buy any which they suspect to be of the
last sort, till they have sent for the alcalde, and consulted with him.
Since this slave trade has been used, all punishments are changed into
slavery; and the natives reaping advantage from such condemnations, they
strain hard for crimes, in order to obtain the benefit of selling the criminal:
hence not only murder, adultery, and theft, are here punished by selling
the malefactor; but every trifling crime is also punished in the same manner.
Thus at Cantore, a man seeing a tyger eating a deer, which he himself had
killed and hung up near his house, fired at the tyger, but unhappily shot
a man: when the king had not only the cruelty to condemn him for this accident;
but had the injustice and inhumanity to order also his mother, his three
brothers, and his three sisters, to be sold. They were brought down to
me at Yamyamacunda, when it made my heart ache to see them; but on my refusing
to make this cruel purchase, they were sent father down the river, and
sold to some separate traders at Joar, and the vile avaricious king had
the benefit of the goods for which they were sold.
Indeed the cruelty and villainy of some of
these princes can scarcely be conceived. Thus, whenever the king of Barsally,
some of whose villainies I have already mentioned, wants goods or brandy,
he sends to the governor of James's Fort, to desire him to send a sloop
there with a proper cargo; which is readily complied with. Mean while,
the king goes and ransacks some of his enemies towns, and seizing the innocent
people, sells them to the factors in the sloop
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for such commodities
as he wants, as brandy, rum, guns, gunpowder, ball, pistols, and cutlasses,
for his attendants and soldiers with coral and silver for his wives and
concubines: but in case he is not at war with any neighbouring king, he
then falls upon one of his own towns, which are very numerous, and uses
them in the same manner, selling those for slaves, whom he is bound by
every obligation to protect.
Several of the natives of these countries have many slaves born in their families. This there is a whole village near
Brucoe of 200 people, who are the wives, slaves, and children of one man.
And though in some parts of Africa they sell the slaves born in the family;
yet this is here thought extreamly wicked; and I never heard but of one
person who ever sold a family slave, except for such crimes as would have
authorised its being done, had he been free. Indeed, if there are many
slaves in the family, and one of them commits a crime, the master cannot
sell him without the joint consent of the rest: for if he does, they will
run away to the next kingdom, where they will find protection.
Ivory, or elephants teeth, is the next principal
article of commerce. These are obtained either by hunting and killing the
beasts, or are picked up in the woods. This is a trade used by all the
nations hereabouts; for whoever kills an elephant, has the liberty of selling
him and his teeth. But those traded for in this river are generally bought
from a good way within the land. The largest tooth I ever saw weighed 130
pounds.
The fourth branch of trade consists in bees-wax.
The Mundingoes make beehives of straw shaped like ours, and fixing to each
a bottom board, in which is a hole, for the bees to go in and out, hang
them on the boughs of trees. They smother the bees in order to take the
combs, and pressing out the honey, of which they make a kind of metheglin,
boil up the
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wax with water, strain it, and press it through
hair cloths into holes made in the ground.
At length, on the 8th of April 1735, having
delivered up the company's effects to Mr. James Conner, I embarked on board
the company's sloop. Among other persons, Job came down with me to the
sloop, and parted with me with tears in his eyes; at the same time giving
me letters to the duke of Montague, the royal African company, Mr. Oglethorpe,
and several other gentlemen in England, telling me to give his love and
duty to them, and to acquaint them, that as he designed to learn to write
the English tongue, he would, when he was master of it, send them longer
epistles. He desired me, that as I had lived with him almost ever since
he came there, I would let his grace and the other gentlemen know what
he had done; and that he was going to the gum forest, and would endeavour
to produce so good an understanding between the company and the Pholeys,
that he did not doubt but that the English would procure the gum trade:
adding, that he would spend his days in endeavouring to do good to the
English, by whom he had been redeemed from slavery, and from whom he had
received innumerable favours.
Soon after he returned on shore, while I sailed to England; and at length,
on the 13th of July, landed at Deal.
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